"f86sabre" (f86sabre)
03/03/2019 at 14:16 • Filed to: House
1
28|
"f86sabre" (f86sabre)
03/03/2019 at 14:16 • Filed to: House | 1
| 28 |
Anyone have a steel garage put in? Thoughts? We have an acre, it’s hilly, but I think I could level a bit in the back and put a four car plus work area building back there. Wife is good with the idea. I’d want one tall enough for a lift so I can multiply the space And get under cars. I want to put the Mini, Evo, and I will likely get my dad’s 64 Comet Cyclone some day. This will allow us to park the DDs in the house garage.
VincentMalamute-Kim
> f86sabre
03/03/2019 at 14:29 |
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I didn’t have one put in. It came with the property. Depending on your climate, I’d make sure to insulate it when it’s put in, not afterwards. May want drywall finished walls. Mine has sliding barn type doors which are stupid. Make sure your concrete is thick enough for a lift. Or thick enough at least at the place you want to site your lift. A lot of times, the concrete is going to be poured thin if you don’t specify a lift/don’t supervise. Think about how the building is going to affect rain/water drainage on your property.
I
t’s like any other garage. What specific questions about steel buildings
are on your mind?
E92M3
> f86sabre
03/03/2019 at 14:35 |
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That’s my dream one day. Once my s on is out of school I’m leaving neighborhoods behind an d getting a 1-2 acre property where I can finally have a shop. My opinion is steel is fine in our climate. You don’t really need insula tion IMO. Couple big air fans in the summer, wear longjohns in the winter if need be.
Monkey B
> f86sabre
03/03/2019 at 14:58 |
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is there a question? Build garage? Yes!
Fuckkinja
> E92M3
03/03/2019 at 15:07 |
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Steel has a 40 paint warranty. The steel should last a 100 years with 0 maintenance. It’s the best way to build large buildings quickly. It’s kinda loud in a rainstorm.
My shop keeps me married. I’m out there everyday.
TheRealBicycleBuck
> f86sabre
03/03/2019 at 15:14 |
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Plan for more space that you think you need. My mom had this monster put in:
Room for four cars, plus space on the left to park the riding mower, store tools, put in a sink, etc. It ended up being used for two cars, the mower, tools, and a lot of storage at the back.
So, here’s the advice. Spend the money up front for insulation and at least a couple of windows. If the power goes out, it gets dark really fast. Even if you don’t have the money right now to do a bathroom , get it plumbed for water and sewer. Put in a door other than the garage door. It’s surprising how useful a normal door can be. Put in a garage door opener and buy a keypad which will operate the opener without the remote. P lan for drainage around the building. It’s easier to put in a proper set of drains when it’s built. Put concrete in front of the building and slope it away from the building. You don’t want to drag mud or even gravel dust into the building as you move cars, mowers, etc. inside. Have it wired and put in plenty of lighting (my mom didn’t have this done upfront). If you plan to use air tools, it’s easier to plumb an air distribution system when the building is first built. Seal the concrete with epoxy paint before you move anything in. It’s a pain to move everything out to seal it later. Plan for your work bench and cabinets upfront. I think a lot of people forget about those during the planning phase, then end up with cabinets/toolboxes that get blocked when they move a car inside.
I’m sure others will come up with other ideas, but that should give you some food for thought.
Highlander-Datsuns are Forever
> f86sabre
03/03/2019 at 15:15 |
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Depending on the neighborhood and zoning a sheet metal garage may not be allowed, start there? I think they are great though and the durability is there. If money were no object wood frame with nice si ding would look better and may be more flexible for windows and doors .
shop-teacher
> f86sabre
03/03/2019 at 15:16 |
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I don't love the way they look, but they're a whole lot cheaper than stick building a garage. They're definitely the way to go for a shop that doesn't need to look pretty. A couple of my friends have put them up. 13' is the magic number for wall height to put a lift in without messing around with shoehorning it between roof trusses.
BrianGriffin thinks “reliable” is just a state of mind
> f86sabre
03/03/2019 at 15:36 |
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Pre-fab pole barns are the way to go. You can grade and concert yourself, or the companies that install can do it. They usually come insulated and ready for heat/power/sewer. Make sure you order and perhaps install the lift before they assemble the barn. Also they typically have pretty good financing rates, if you’re going to look into that.
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f86sabre
> TheRealBicycleBuck
03/03/2019 at 15:41 |
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Great notes. Drainage is going to be tricky. I don’t want to swamp the neighbors.
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f86sabre
> VincentMalamute-Kim
03/03/2019 at 15:43 |
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Just how happy people are with them. I’ve been around them in farms when all they are are metal shells. That’s ok, but I would this to a bit more civilized than that.
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f86sabre
> Highlander-Datsuns are Forever
03/03/2019 at 15:45 |
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We aren’t in a neighborhood, so we should be fine. My dad is a farmer and I’m sure he would push toward stick frame, but I would like to keep the costs reasonable.
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f86sabre
> Monkey B
03/03/2019 at 15:45 |
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I was just waiting for your approval!
Brickman
> f86sabre
03/03/2019 at 15:51 |
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I have one. Ugly, but it works. Customization is endless. Easy to build 2x4 walls and add insulation if you live up north.
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TheRealBicycleBuck
> f86sabre
03/03/2019 at 15:55 |
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I’m glad to help.
Check with the local authorities about building permits and drainage requirements. Figure out where your current surface water flows and plan accordingly.
I’m making plans for drainage updates around my house. Things are staying too soggy for too long. I need to clean out the french drains and re-slope the side yards so they go to the drains instead of holding the water.
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VincentMalamute-Kim
> f86sabre
03/03/2019 at 15:57 |
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Mine’s one of those steel shells. I’d like to insulate, drywall (at least the walls). Plumbing would be nice - but
I just use a jug. No insulation in the ceiling means a faint drizzle
is LOUD. Actual rain is deafening - can’t work in there
.
Like RealBicycleBuck says, installing everything you can during construction is best. I have trouble planning so I end up having to use it, then modify it.
Generic shop stuff:
Last shop needed more electric, especially 20 amp circuits. Consider
several
240 circuits (compressor, lift, welder
)
.
Plumb air lines. Windows are good. High placement means preserved wall space for tools.
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VincentMalamute-Kim
> BrianGriffin thinks “reliable” is just a state of mind
03/03/2019 at 15:58 |
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Do
n’t pole barns depend on climate? Coming from Wisconsin, I shudder at the thought of wood in ground contact (treated or not
). In Colorado, most of
my neighbors have pole barns.
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Monkey B
> f86sabre
03/03/2019 at 16:03 |
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it’s unwritten car guy code to approve all garage constructions, regardless of any and all circumstances.
Garbage bag and 2x4 garage? Y es, build it.
Concrete G arage M ah al? Yes, build it.
SilentButNotReallyDeadly...killed by G/O Media
> f86sabre
03/03/2019 at 17:07 |
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Always. We’ve just pressed the button on our third.
First two were at our old house. First one was a 14 metre by 6 metre building divided into two (each 7 wide and 6 deep). One side was open fronted for car parking while the other was closed in with a full height sliding door that opened up a full bay. There was also a PA door.
Over time, we out grew this shed. So we built another 12 m X 6 m (2 bays open, 1 enclosed) for car parking and a guest room. The open section of the old shed was enclosed and I fitted it with a matching sliding door.
Then we sold that place and moved here.
New shed is six bays, each bay is 4m wide and 9m deep. Four bays will be enclosed and accessed by double sliding doors, each one full height (~3.2 m) and one bay wide. There will also be a 3 metre wide skillion roof out the front of these bays and both the bays and the area under the skillion will be on a concrete slab. The four bays will be divided equally into two to give us a clean side and a dirty side of the shed. The roof and walls will be insulated with a foil/foam wafer product (essential for summer comfort here). Remaining two bays will be open fronted and gravel floored for storing wheeled machinery and the farm ute.
If I have any hints to give then this is the one...in order to work on cars or trucks then you need enough width to open doors on both sides of the car AND be able to walk around those doors (hence 4 m wide) plus you need to have a working area in front of the engine bay with room for a bench (since our biggest vehicle is 6 m long add 2 metres space plus 1 metre for the bench...9 metres). Oh and sliding doors beat roller doors hands down.
If it is any help, Australian shed builders often have design software on their websites so you can specify your design before requesting a quote. Can be handy. Fair Dinkum Sheds even has an app...
MM54
> f86sabre
03/03/2019 at 17:17 |
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I would like to put one up solely for storage in the next couple years; check zoning before you get too far into design. For some reason they like to tell you what you can’t do on your own property.
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TheRealBicycleBuck
> E92M3
03/03/2019 at 17:18 |
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“You don’t really need insulation IMO.”
Don’t you live up north? When I lived in Oklahoma I had to do a clutch job on my mom’s Civic. We did the work in an uninsulated metal building with a concrete floor. While I was thankful to be out of the wind and not working in the dirt, we didn’t have a space heater and the cold concrete just sucked the heat out of me, even with longjohns and coveralls.
The second time around, we borrowed a propane-fired space heater.
TheD0k_2many toys 2little time
> f86sabre
03/03/2019 at 17:26 |
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I have a 2.5 garge and love it. Not steel but i i
nsulated it for winter. Fits two motorcycles and two cars.
gmporschenut also a fan of hondas
> f86sabre
03/03/2019 at 17:32 |
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also get an idea how crazy you want to get with electrical.
I have a coworker, who wanted 110 and 220 outlets all over the place. electrician came back with a huge price, my coworker flipped ot why so much when “I could get away with less, as I would only run one at a time”
electrician: yeah, none of that is to code
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BrianGriffin thinks “reliable” is just a state of mind
> VincentMalamute-Kim
03/03/2019 at 19:24 |
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There’s no wood; pole barns are steel or aluminum attached to...well, poles. At least the modern ones I’ve seen in the northeast are built that way.
someassemblyrequired
> f86sabre
03/03/2019 at 19:42 |
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These guys (and similar) did a lot of garages in our neighborhood back in CT. They look amazing, and you can get em in huge heights (one of our neighbors had 12ft barn doors). They have some pricing listed to give you an idea.
http://www.thebarnyardstore.com/custom-garages/special-packages/
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VincentMalamute-Kim
> BrianGriffin thinks “reliable” is just a state of mind
03/03/2019 at 23:45 |
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All steel makes
sense for wet
Midwest and Northeast climate. My part of Colorado is high desert climate and dry. My neighbors bury wood posts directly into the ground for their pole barns. “shudder”
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E92M3
> TheRealBicycleBuck
03/05/2019 at 11:20 |
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No, we are both in the Atlanta area.
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TheRealBicycleBuck
> E92M3
03/05/2019 at 11:32 |
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I’ve never been to Atlanta (except for spending one night in the airport, but that’s another story). I hear that the climate is similar to Houston. I’d still want to insulate the building so I could cool it in the summer. The Louisiana heat drives me out of my garage in May and I don’t willingly return until October except to fetch tools unless my wife has projects which MUST be completed.
Darkbrador
> f86sabre
03/06/2019 at 14:54 |
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Just do it, why do you ask ?!?
If you plan on a lift, and you need to plan for a lift, t he concrete pad/fou ndation is critical. I installed a 2 posts lift in my garage last year and, if I remember correctly, the lift manufacturer recommends a minimum of 4" reinforced concrete to install the anchors bolts. Think about having a slight slope so that leaks/spills go towards the door, not accumulate in a corner.
You also need to plan enough overhead space to lift the vehicles without hitting the roof/rafters and have enough space to work comfortab ly under the vehicle.
And if you go for a lift, don’t use a overhead door as the rails and opener motor tend to get in the way. Or at least use a side opener.
Now, what kind of weather vane will you install on the roof ?